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Matfer Bourgeat carbon steel frying pan

What a restaurant uses for eggs and searing: lighter than cast iron, seasons like it.

What it is good at

  • Being lighter than cast iron at the same size
  • Taking a season quickly and releasing eggs well once seasoned
  • Sliding under a grill or into an oven

Check before you buy

  • Steel thickness: thin pans warp on high heat, thicker ones cost more and last
  • Whether the handle is welded (harder to replace) or riveted
  • The initial seasoning routine the maker recommends

Who it is not for

Anyone who wants a pan that can go in the dishwasher, or who will not season it in the first week.

Carbon steel is the professional kitchen default because it combines a light pan with a surface that behaves like non-stick once seasoned. The trade is maintenance: dry it on the hob every time.

The seasoning routine is short: scrub off the factory coating, heat it, wipe a thin film of oil, repeat a few times. After that it improves on its own.

Also in Cookware

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A heavy, pre-seasoned pan for searing, baking and anything that goes from hob to oven.

Best for
Anyone who wants one pan that does searing, baking and frying.
Watch out for
It is heavy, it reacts with acidic sauces, and it must be dried on the hob.
Check price and availability

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The forgiving pan: no seasoning, no reactivity, good for sauces and deglazing.

Best for
Sauces, acidic dishes and anyone who wants a pan they cannot ruin.
Watch out for
Food sticks until you learn heat control, and it is not non-stick.
Check price and availability

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One pot for braises, bread and soup that also looks presentable at the table.

Best for
Slow cooking, bread baking and anyone who wants one heavy pot rather than three.
Watch out for
Enamel chips if knocked, and the pot is heavy when full.
Check price and availability